· 1 1/8" sheet of plywood (if you don't have a truck have it cut to size at the lumber yard)
· ½ (4'x4') sheet of 3/4 " plywood
· 1 @ 2"x4" x 8' or 1 @ 2"x6"x8'
· 6 @ loose pin hinges
· 2 @ 8" gate hinges
· 6 @ ¼" x 5" eye bolts w/ nuts
· 5@ 3/8" tee nut
· 5@ 2 x 3/8" eye bolts
· 4@ 3/8" fender washers
· Wood screws for hinges
· Paint or stain - deck paint works the quite well
· Spackle or wood filler
· Sand paper
· Tape measure
· Long straight edge or sheet rock square
· Chalk line (optional for marking you long lines)
· Saber/jig saw
· Skill saw if you don't have it cut to size this is optional
· 3/8" or ½" round over bit for router
· Try square
· Drill bits
· Nail set or small punch
· Screw driver
· Paint brushes
· Drop cloths
· Saw horses
The 11/4" plywood you are going to use will have to be checked first. Its normally use as sub floor so it is not the best looking stuff in the world. As it is c-d grade and will have voids and knots, so pick through the stack and find the one that looks the best. That is why you will need Spackle or wood filler to fix them. The surface will also need sanding to smooth it out for paint. I make all my toys for commercial use, so I tend to build the stronger than you might need for just home use. For lighter home use you may try ¾" HDO plywood or ¾" marine grade plywood but they will cost about the same per sheet maybe more. Part of the reason I use the 11/8 " ply is for the weight that gives it that real solid feeling.
Loose pin hinges
This is the way to you can break down your rack quick and easy. Pop the hinge pins out and see look on the pin for a small tab or shoulder this holds the pin in place. File or sand that down so that it will slide in and easier. That or run a ¼" drill through the hole for the pin and use a long ¼" machine bolt and nut they don't have to be tight just so it wont work its way out. I have use a bolt with a wire twist in the ends and that works fine too.
If you can get the lumberyard / home depot to cut the plywood down to size for you that will save time and make it easier to move. It will save you the next 3 steps.
· Cut off the tongue and groves by using the straight edge as a saw guide. Cut off just enough to remove them about 2" from each side
· Cut 1' off the bottom so your 8' ply is 7' it's easier to move around in a house that way. If you are going to use it where height is no problem leave it he full 8 feet tall.
· You want the front side to be about 24" wide and the back will be about 18" measure and mark. Mark off a cut line and cut length wise.
· Find the center of the two sides you now have and mark both do this for both the length and width. This is what you will be make all you marks from so make sure all the lines and straight and true.
· On the front side from your centerline mark off 4" on both the left and right side. Do this down the centerline in a few places down the length it. And draw a line down the to mark them off.
· From the top edge make down 6" on the left and right side mark, and draw a line across it
· From the bottom mark up 36" on the left and right side and mark, and draw a line across it
· Now you should have an 8" wide box marked off in the middle this is opening for you head when you have some one on your rack. Now cut it out using your saber saw take you time and make as clean a cut as you can this will save a lot of sanding time. To make the cut drill a hole large enough to get the saw blade in the part you are cutting out and start there.
· On the bottom mark up 6" and make mark both the left and right side and draw a line across
· From the left and right edge mark 6" and mark now draw you lines up to 8" mark. You should have a box in the middle cut this out too. This is a space for your feet
· If you want you can taper top the front haft to match the back by coming down about 18"to 24" and running your taper cut from there.
Back ½ haft on your rack
· On the back haft of your rack from the top mark down 6" and draw a line across it
· From the bottom measure up 12" and draw a line across
· From both edges measure in 4" and mark and draw you lines down them
· From that line measures in 4" and mark and draw you lines down them
· From the bottom measure up 36' and mark the line.
· So you now have two boxes that are 4" wide on each side.
· Cut them out the same way you did the front
· On the bottom you will make the box 6" high and 8" wide like the one from the front (the sizes are different because the side are different)
· Router all the edges at this time both front and back
· Now fill all the voids and knot holes with your filler material and let it dry
Next the bases
· Cut your piece of ¾" plywood so it is 2'x 4'
· From corner of each edge measure over 3" and mark
· With your tri-square using the 45* guide mark and draw in the lines. You should have triangles on the edges now
· Cut them off
· Now router and sand the bases if you do not have a router sand the edges so they and not sharp
· 18" from the front of the bases mark a line across them; this is where you will be mounting the top haft of the rack.
· Take you time as this is what gives you a nice smooth finish
Back to your rack
· Find your centerlines on both the front and back haft of your rack. And lay the 2 pieces flat on the ground with the back (inside face) up and the centerlines matched up.
· Now to attach your 8" hinges. On the back haft of your rack measure in 2" and mark this is the outside edge mark square off your hinges and install. Making sure they don't bind.